Travel north with me to the dark winter days of Orkney. Italian prisoners of war are building barriers between the islands around the deep water of Scapa Flow, protection for naval ships. It’s wartime, 1944. We are ushered through the barbed wire into the camp. The men have finished for the day. We see them file into a Nissen hut, so we follow them in – and our breath is taken away. For this unassuming hut is the most gloriously painted chapel we have ever seen. In the midst of conflict and alongside enemies, we are drawn with them into quiet worship and prayers for peace.
Inspired by a prisoner priest and prisoner artist, and supported by the camp commandant, the now-named Italian Chapel on the island of Lamb Holm is a remarkable place. Symbols of peace recur in the art. A prisoner described the reason behind such creativity in adversity:
“It was the wish to show to oneself first, and to the world then, that in spite of being trapped in a barbed wire camp, down in spirit, physically and morally deprived of many things, one could still find something inside that could be set free…
“The statue of St George [outside] was built first. It shows the patron saint of soldiers ready to kill the dragon.”
“…It is the symbol of a will to ‘kill’ all misunderstandings among people of different cultures. As the St George was built to express the physical and psychological pain, so was the chapel conceived to meet a spiritual need.”
Eighty years on, and a new year clicks up. “Misunderstandings among people of different cultures” still proliferate. I weep for Gaza particularly as I write this. Yet this chapel testifies to the light of hope that shines into the darkest corners. (More photos at http://tinyurl.com/49bwjr84 )
I have a surreal personal reminder of this chapel: I geekily photographed my car dashboard when I visited it, with the chapel in the background – the mileage had just clicked up to an aesthetically pleasing round number. My mileometer is now a recurring reminder of the chapel and so a reminder of hope. May this New Year, and each subsequent click through the year’s calendar, shine the light of hope on us all.
Rev David Carrington
Team Vicar of Escot, Feniton and Payhembury
The Rectory, Station Road, Feniton (01404 850905) revdavidcarrington@gmail.com